Around the same time as Helmut Lang came across an old book of fisherman s knots, Bill Murray asked him to design a suit with a pair of sailor pants that the star could wear at the Oscars. Presto! The inspiration was set for Lang s spring 2005 collection, a nautical jaunt that took in denims or summery seersucker suits encircled by white rope belts, raffia vests that looked like netting, and T-shirts with a rope print curled across the corner. Fishermen s sweaters were slashed open or, in some cases, left as a single coil of knit down the chest—one of the designer s signature "phantom" garments. As usual, Lang nimbly avoided letting his theme get away with him (with the possible exception of the goat-fur sailor clogs). A navy-and-white palette prevailed, save for one pair of utterly transparent jeans and another covered with a Swiss floral print. Wearability bonus points: The flat fronts of Lang s sailor pants (one pair done in cashmere, as per Murray s request) made for a flattering fit.
