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"I m undercover," declared the soundtrack for BCBG s spring runway show. Hopefully that s just idle thinking, because Max Azria s collection deserves some attention—particularly the first half, with embroidered skirts, smocked dresses, sequined tunics, and embellished coats that were folky, pretty, and perfectly on trend. The accessories hit, too; there was a great oversize bag, crochet and embroidered belts, and charm necklaces.

But it seemed Azria changed his mind right around the time the eveningwear appeared. Those rhinestone-embellished chiffon dresses in pastel colors had not one mot of peasant panache, but they re bound to delight Azria s starlet contingent. Quick switches like that make it easy to get lost in the vast BCBG universe, but this season the sporty separates will be easy—and fun—to navigate.