After devoting an entire year to designing the costumes for 7,000 of her Greek compatriots for the Athens Olympics opening ceremonies, it s astonishing that Sophia Kokosalaki had the stamina to even think of a theme for her own collection—let alone produce it. But this resourceful young woman not only came up with a theme—the sea and all its contents—she made it her Paris debut.
Not surprisingly, the collection contained some reminders of Kokosalaki s Olympics work, opening with a bunchily rippled blue-painted wave dress reminiscent of the stadium-scaled gown she made for Björk. There were bodices textured like the insides of shells, shoulders sprouting anemone-like fronds, and silk-jersey seaweed pieces in watery blue and palest pink.
Still, a theme only counts for so much. What really registers is recognizable continuity in a designer s vision, and Kokosalaki wisely concentrated on her strength in dresses. She emphasized her signature draping, in corded pleats that ran over the bodices of jersey dresses; the best, in pink with a scooped back. The glittering ripples of sun on wet sand appeared as gold beading on skirts or on glinting belts and cummerbunds.
It was an ambitious effort for Kokosalaki s first show outside her adopted London. The squeezed schedule and multiple demands no doubt took their toll on the technical execution, which didn t achieve the complexity her designs demand. To fully realize her talent, Kokosalaki needs time and investment; perhaps the exposure of Paris will capture the attention she deserves.
