With cardboard waves, clouds, and seagulls as a backdrop and a boardwalk/runway elevated above acres of sand, Antonio Marras spring Kenzo collection set off prettily from Brittany and docked in Provence. It wasn t all plain sailing, though, because along the way, there was an implausible stopover at Euro Disney, not to mention a quick tour of the children s nursery.
Marras began then with a saucy nautical theme: Navy-and-white-striped clingy knits and tailored sailor suits came with matching berets. To finish, he sent out floor-length silhouettes: floral gowns with pink gingham accents, a crocheted suit, and a lacy pinafore dress that, topped with a straw hat, called to mind Little Bo Peep. Somewhere in the middle, a couple of polka-dot chiffon looks were accessorized with Minnie Mouse ears.
After their exits, the models made their way onto a cardboard ship waiting in the wings. When the last one swaggered aboard, wearing a man s tuxedo that made one think of the ill-fated couple in Marguerite Duras novel The Lover, the foghorn bleated, and the boat came into view. Then, while confetti blew sideways from a wind machine, the girls disembarked for a final lap around the boardwalk. It made for good theater, though Marras might do well to remember that modern women are less interested in costumes than well-designed clothes. He had plenty of the latter, but a little less eccentricity would have gone a long way.
