So much for minimalism. Not that Proenza Schouler s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have ever endorsed austerity, but after this duo s Arts and Crafts-inflected spring collection, the much buzzed-about trend may be dead in the water. Working in a shadowy palette of black, gray, silver, and white, the designers established a restricted silhouette: Skirts were midcalf length and slightly full at the hips and thighs, while pants were narrow and tapered. Tops, except for a few new riffs on their signature bustiers and bodysuits, had volume, as did jackets. Coats, primarily, were trim.
Now, here s the fun part: Openwork embroidery decorated the bust line of their first exit, a wheat linen dress, and from there, the crewel work, brocade, and passementerie just kept coming. Puff-sleeve gauze tops with ruffled necklines looked like instant hits, as did two jackets, one in silver burlap and the other in charcoal silk, that both buttoned up the back. A chartreuse silk velvet coat was too Sgt. Pepper to be user-friendly, but in smoke with white embroidery, it s a guaranteed collector s item. Dana Lorenz s ropey necklaces worked well with the boys delicate clothes. As for the duo s stacked-heel sandals, they were clean, modern counterpoints to all that embellishment, which could at times seem bulky. Taken separately, there were plenty of lovely pieces that Proenza Schouler s fans—some of whom looked desperately for the diaphanous finale gowns, which never arrived—will no doubt want to claim as their new favorites.
