How absolutely delightful it is to see a small, perfectly formed collection, conceived in a flash of inspiration, that happens to make complete sense. What was that flash of inspiration? In a word: handkerchiefs. Or, more specifically, trenchcoats made of meltingly beautiful fine lawn and lace handkerchiefs—an overlooked anachronism that a 32-year-old designer named Tao Kurihara happened one day to pick up, turn in her hand, and marvel at.
Did she have a cold, on that day in Tokyo? No matter, the happy incident set her off on a mission to find all the most beautiful examples of hankies she could collect: some Chinese, in hand-embroidered broderie anglaise with scalloped edges; some Japanese, cross-stitched with minute bunches of violets; some in Swiss voile, with monograms in the corner; and many more. Then she pieced all the squares together and came up with a little collection of summer raincoats and T-shirts gorgeous enough to make members of the audience consider staging a smash-and-grab raid on the spot.
In a Paris season heavy on the frilly romance, Tao s version makes for a sweet but cool counterpoint. And as fashion once again starts looking to its young designers, it s great to welcome a talent like this—who, by upending the old order of a big-time, show-off collection, has set her sights on making one specific, exceptional thing to slip into a wardrobe.
A 1992 graduate of London s Central Saint Martins, Tao is the latest hopeful to emerge from behind the scenes at Comme des Garçons, where she now works with her own team of six designers.
