For his latest show, Johan Lindeberg said he envisioned downtown Manhattan infiltrating the posh Hamptons. But it quickly became apparent that prep had punk licked. From the moment a monogrammed shirt and pinstriped blazer got the show off to a proudly patrician start, the gritty rockers were clearly going to be outnumbered.
Sure, the WASPy tasselled loafers came in white patent leather, and those gauzy layered T-shirts had a tinge of the Goth about them, but the cricket whites hinted at the fundamental inclinations of this collection. Let s not forget that Johan is minting it in the golf world. Is cricket next?
Sporting life aside, Lindeberg has been carving out a niche at retail as a kind of Helmut Lang manqué. This time around, there were hints of Lang s lean tailoring in the outer- and eveningwear. A white plastic coat and a satin-trimmed white tux evoked neither uptown nor downtown, but rather a bygone era of deluxe minimalism.