An opening burst of Prince s "Pop Life" on the soundtrack signposted designer Christophe Lemaire s tip of the cap to the Purple One s Riviera fantasy Under the Cherry Moon, after which the rest of the show unspooled as a vision of a summer spent by the Mediterranean. From navy blazers, nautical stripes, and yachting whites to pastel-shirt and pleated-pant combos to a hot orange polo paired with aqua slacks, Lemaire took his men from the marina at Cannes to Les Caves du Roy in Saint-Tropez. And a djellaba-like shirt made for appealing loungewear. But for all the color, there was an oddly buttoned-down quality to the collection, possibly because the Big Idea was everything matching (which can look a little de trop when what s matching is pistachio or pink). The trompe l oeil loosened tie that decorated that orange polo did, however, evoke a wayward flash of Anthony Michael Hall in his eighties heyday—and in context, that wasn t such a bad thing.
