Antonio Berardi said he had religion on his mind when he began working on his spring collection. But his is not an ascetic style. Born a Roman Catholic, Berardi loves a flourish. And although these clothes—thank heaven—were less ornately layered than last season s and significantly lighter in their overall effect, there were schoolgirl uniforms, vestments, and silver-plated priest collars aplenty, even a few waisted tunics and armor-like boleros with a touch of Joan of Arc to them. "There s a purity and innocence here," said the designer. "But there s pomp and circumstance, too."
Glorified communion dresses—above-the-knee, A-line, and bibbed or yoked—came in organzas, tulles, and chiffons just translucent enough to betray cardinal-red lingerie sets beneath. The lantern sleeves of blackboard-gray shifts and miniature skirt suits, meanwhile, were filigreed with silver like a bishop s robes. Dropping the metaphor, he turned out a spot-on tent dress cut from embroidered metallic lace that stood out from the rest for its simple, welcome wearability. George Harrison s "My Sweet Lord" played as the models came out for the finale processional, but holy wasn t the word for Berardi s show. He takes his faith leavened with a bit of sin—and more than enough ostentation.
