Jill Stuart s show began with a surprise: Danish male model Mathias Lauridsen. Yes, Stuart has launched a menswear line (named Stuart Curtis because it was created in conjunction with her husband, Ron Curtis). That wasn t the only trick the designer had up her sleeve in this collection. The women s clothes were built around corsetry, and while lingerie is a recurring theme for Stuart, this time around boning and structure replaced satiny, starlet-style pieces.
This was a move in the right direction, as it took the designer away from her overfamiliar vintage vibe (even if it s difficult to picture some of these sheer ensembles working outside of the bedroom). She also made good (though rather too much) use of the trapeze shape. Of particular note were a black lace number and a swingy pleated ivory lace look with a V-back and bows at the shoulders.
