In creating his second solo collection, Nathan Jenden drew upon many ideas, including, "Spring, unfurling, the lightness and airiness of insects that fly. And rolling out of bed. I love the idea of waking up after a party in a couture dress." On top of that, his show referenced Victoriana and the French Court. That s more inspiration than one collection can be expected to handle, and today s presentation was somewhat scattered, though not without its winning moments. Bubble-hemmed trenches and poufs didn t do Jenden—or his models—any favors. He was on surer footing with pieces that displayed his tailoring skills and knack for intriguing details. The Diane von Furstenberg creative director cut beautiful, hand-painted silks into some sharp jackets. And two great "tuxedos," one in crushed leather, the other in cashmere jersey, were worth getting out of bed for.
