At the close of his spring show, titled "American Spectators," Bryan Bradley took a bow in camouflage pants with a Stars and Stripes bandana tied on his head. The collection s back story, the designer said, was "Western entropy versus Eastern ascendancy." Accordingly, there was an Orientalist flavor throughout. Jessica Stam came out in a lacquer-black cracked-leather coat with an asymmetric button close, and the last look, a red coat, had standing seams that projected both Mandarin might and eighties-style structure.
For the most part, though, this was one of Bradley s safer collections, and it should be a buyer s dream with its well-made separates, smart blouses, perfect pants, and tailored jackets. A bit more of the designer s usual high-concept drama wouldn t have gone amiss, but it was impossible not to like the gorgeous print dresses and other wearable items he sent out. Still, one of the best pieces, a seemingly simple strapless dress with back train, was also the most inventive: It was made out of a limited-edition shower curtain featuring a Lisa Yuskavage nude produced in conjunction with an indomitable "Tuleh girl" by the name of Yvonne Force Villareal.
