The audience was compelled to search for its seats in a twisty labyrinth—an experience some found frustrating enough to equate to the clothes they would later view—but right from the get-go, Miuccia Prada was simply prepping her public for a fashion master class in human vulnerability. It s getting harder for men to find their way in the world. Ergo, shut up and sit down.
In her best men s collection in several seasons, Prada kept a tight focus on her view of the modern male. The more-boyish-and-interchangeable-than-ever models were a bit of a red herring. Their gladiator-style haircuts and wristbands (decorated with vintage watches!) were the giveaway. Prada had a vulnerable warrior on her mind—not exactly Russell Crowe, but someone who is attempting to reconcile expectation and inclination, hence a soundtrack that married classical piano to primal electronic pulse. The tailoring one expects from a Prada collection was more attenuated: the jacket lapel a shawl collar, the fitted leg expanding into a slight flare. The prints were splashy-but-muted poppylike florals, which eventually appeared in silk pajamalike combos. There were seventies-style geometric patterns that wouldn t have looked out of place on swingers leisure suits. And, yes indeedy, there were the very jumpsuits on which they might have shown up.
On paper, it s a challenging smorgasbord (you re probably wondering where the "vulnerable warrior" is in all of this), but it s always been Prada s peculiar skill to pose peculiar questions. She doesn t always bother to answer them—this time, the desirability of the clothes did it for her. And the company that famously made its fortune in bags and shoes can anticipate a bonzer season in accessory sales.
