Ralph Lauren isn t the only designer in town who can put on a show with a capital "S." Oscar de la Renta left the Bryant Park tents for the tonier environs of a decommissioned Georgian church at 583 Park Avenue this season, and hired the blissed-out choir-cum-high-school-jazz-orchestra the Polyphonic Spree to perform its feel-good hits. What s more, he had Roger Federer in his front row, fresh off the tennis ace s fourth U.S. Open win.
The collection itself more than lived up to any heightened expectations the change of scenery might have produced. De la Renta touched upon several of Spring s developing trends—the safari jacket, tribal patterns and beading, strong color—without feeling trendy in the least. Classic is more like it, be it the perfect red wool sheath, a stunningly embroidered black-and-burgundy suit with a cropped jacket and razor-slim skirt, or a tent dress in a brown-and-cream ethnic geometric print. Only a couple of cable sweaters, worn with full pants, came off on the wrong side of the maturity/youth divide. But the designer quickly corrected that with a cardigan in of-the-moment tie-dye.
Evening was a study in elegance, whether de la Renta went understated, as he did with a sublime black silk sponge crepe gown cinched above the waist with a lizard belt, or bold. If you want drama, the show s closing number—strapless, with a spray of glossy black feathers decorating the neckline—is your dress.
