Three days old now, this reshuffled fashion week has gotten off to a less-than-inspired start. But leave it to Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough to pump some blood into the proceedings. Their new silhouette is decidedly body-conscious: With cinched belts everywhere and just one pair of pants on the runway at tonight s venue, the Park Avenue Armory, Spring is all about the waist and the legs—the longer the better.
The show began with a short black dress topped off by both a hemp waistcoat and a second, more abbreviated vest. Following on were a number of looks with a vaguely military air, complete with cavalry hats by fashion s new favorite milliner, Albertus Swanepoel. From there, the clothes took on a more tribal feel. Black-and-white striped jackets were layered over shirtdresses and long-sleeved tees, and the bodice of one dress was beaded in a zebra pattern. Altogether, things were less posh and more street than last season, and, for that reason, the collection seemed truer to the duo s own personal style.
Hernandez and McCollough said they wanted to explore the idea of contrasts, "something organic and man-made, primitive and refined." And thanks to the fact that Valentino Fashion Group bought a 45 percent stake in the company in July, Proenza Schouler can afford to really up the ante on the refinement front. The gold-leaf silk pieces that closed the parade—Liya Kebede s double-breasted sleeveless coat-dress was the best—are as luxe as it gets, and will no doubt require a socialite s or celebrity s hefty wallet. Demi Moore swooped out after the show with, count them, four bodyguards in tow. The boys should ask to borrow a couple of those: There are going to be plenty of eager ladies elbowing to wear these clothes.
