Backstage before the show, Stefano Gabbana explained that the catwalk would be emphasizing a pajama theme, though there would be a multitude of other options available back in the showroom. Understandable that he felt such a clarification might be necessary—would the Dolce man who was so well-served by last season s studly chunk be ready for bed? In the end, Gabbana s doubt was needless. What he and Domenico Dolce managed to serve up was the most sophisticated version yet of the casual/formal hybrid that is the 21st century s contribution to menswear. And the pajama theme underscored Dolce Gabbana s new mantra: comfort. Picture a pinstripe suit (foundation stone of the Dolce empire) with the jacket shawl-collared yet the trousers drawstrung, elastic of waist, and rolled of ankle. Such forgiving elegance! A silk denim tuxedo was another way to make the same point. (A collar and tie accompanying drawstring shorts—a bathing suit by any other name—were a bridge too far. But the wingtip mules? How could something so wrong be so right?)
The pajama-striped, shawl-collared suit that opened the show comfortably established the manifesto: no shirt, just a scarf. Even given the exaggeration one allows the catwalk, Dolce and Gabbana were clearly onto something. Chic-but-comfy is the grail of enough guys that the combination of tailoring and trackies should spell ka-ching. And it s not just guys—Naomi Campbell looked gorgeously natural in the grand finale of Orientalia in her flowing kimono, shorts, and ballet flats. BTW, each of those closing outfits was arduously hand-inked: There s a new challenge for your dry cleaner. But what exactly was the assassin s pistol that appeared on a sweater meant to convey? Gun culture in any guise is unfashionable.
