Gucci s press notes invoked "the new way in which youth and luxury can seamlessly coexist." The notion that there might be a new generation hungry for her wares has been Frida Giannini s career impetus. "We don t care about the old folks talkin bout the old style," indeed. Except it wasn t that "old" catwalk classic that soundtracked her show. Instead, Giannini enlisted MGMT s "Time to Pretend" ("this is our decision to live fast and die young") to help put her own thumbprint on the heritage of the house.
The Brooklyn duo s florid style dictated the shape as well as the sound of the collection. The lean tailoring and the neat little leathers that Giannini loves were sneakily overtaken by a creeping jungle of tropical flora and fauna, embroidered, appliquéd, or airbrushed to spectacular effect. Even the shoes weren t safe. Never mind the embroidered hibiscuses, they also had brightly colored heels of crocodile. Those same flowers were also embroidered on a python jacket, beaded on a biker jacket, and printed trailing up the legs of white jeans. They were so exuberantly, almost vulgarly, lush as to raise a smile. (Giannini did, after all, say that her definition of the collection was "happiness.")
She offered her Tropicana club kids jeans in dégradé shades of sunset or printed with palm fronds; shirts decorated with toucans and parrots; perforated-leather safari shorts…The guy in the parka and striped jeans, fresh off his Vespa, looked almost out of place. He was from Giannini s old world. Now she has geographically relocated to a fantasyland of rich hippie/gypsy chic. Although the relative restraint of black-and-white jacquard tuxes with their tone-on-tone embroidery harked back to earlier collections when Frida was finding her way, the huge amethyst-and-malachite belt buckles she showed them with were definitely picking up signals from Planet MGMT.
