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As rents up and down Seventh Avenue become more expensive, clothing manufacturers are getting pushed out. If the "Save the Garment Center" T-shirt Anna Sui put in her goody bag—what, no free hairstyling products?—and wore to take her bow don t do much to stem the problem, her Spring collection, with all of its beading and appliqué work, might just keep a few factories in business. Sui took inspiration from the way that textile designer, shopkeeper, and New York Mexican restaurant pioneer Alexander Girard and his doll-maker friend Marilyn Neuhart made the folkloric modern. "Their work was very colorful, optimistic, and happy, which is what I m pushing these days," Sui said.

The parade of shift dresses, rompers, and peasant tops worn with kicky skirts had a vaguely south-of-the-border feel—think rosebud embroideries, rickrack borders, and fringe detailing. But as usual, there was plenty more in Sui s madcap mix to catch the eye, including astrology prints, a detour into Spanish toreador mode, studded gladiator sandals, and some of the grooviest costume jewelry (made by Erickson Beamon) in a season of groovy costume jewelry. If it didn t put a smile on your face, you weren t paying attention.