Let other designers batten down the hatches against the flagging economy. Carolina Herrera s customers have recession-proof portfolios, and if they don t, they re not going to let it show by dressing in any old thing. The show s color palette was of the "If you ve got it, flaunt it" variety: bright persimmon paired with hibiscus, teal faille trimmed in tweed, a marigold photo print. Black and white also played starring roles. Compared to her recent collections, embellishments had been scaled back; Spring is all about the ruffle. As for the silhouettes, though, they were designed for cocktail hour and beyond (with a few exceptions for lunch at La Grenouille).
Herrera has always loved a skirtsuit, but this season short Watteau-back jackets in duchesse satin came with pants cut cigarette-slim and cropped several inches above the ankle—the effect was vaguely toreador. She showed enough dresses for a season s worth of dinners, art openings, and galas. There were pretty party frocks in mille-feuille chiffon that had the unstructured ease of silk lingerie. The "important" gowns came in corseted silk cloque or lacquered black raffia (don t even think of sitting down in that one). A beaded, liquid jersey column in white with a black gabardine jacket slung over the shoulders was the winner of the bunch, though, not only because it captured a certain effortlessness, but also because, yes, it looked wallet-friendly: The blazer could do double duty with a T-shirt and jeans.
