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Dolce & Gabbana

SPRING 2009 READY-TO-WEAR

By Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana

When it comes to throwing a glossy, high-spec runway performance, there s no one left in Milan who does it with quite the bravura of Dolce e Gabbana. They have their devices, of course, and they spell them out up front, leaving nothing in doubt: A preshow video named the collection "Pigiama Barocco." That meant classic gentlemen s silk pajamas, spotted or striped, with lots of bejeweling in the models hair and on brooches, for starters. Big poufy skirts came into it, too, and tiered-lace cardigans, and then gilded brocades that took a sideways segue into some of those flat, exaggerated geometric constructions (big Minnie Mouse-ear sleeves, in this case) that are popping up all over.

Busy as this sounds, there was focus. At a point where most handbag displays have become lackluster, Dolce and Gabbana s literally shone, loaded with sequined embroideries and gold chains (a smart proposition for toting a purse as a piece of jewelry). For evening, the designers also nailed a couple more rising trends: mini-crinis in bouncing semi-sheer skirts, and sumptuously encrusted paillette embroideries. Finale-wise, it was all-out with romantic ball skirts studded with roses. In other words, not a whiff of economic anxiety was detectable within these four walls, and that in itself was curiously cheering.