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There might be fewer reasons to kick up one s heels if the markets keep heading south, but for party dresses Martin Grant is still a go-to guy. Maybe more so than ever, considering he specializes in the sort of unflashy, elegantly anonymous dresses that a woman can return to year after year. All she has to do is update her accessories—this season the designer layered the necklaces on thick, courtesy of a shop next door to his atelier that sells chains by the meter.

Pleating was a key motif of the short, concise show. It was eye-catching on the neckline of a Champagne-gold halter dress and on the hip of a long navy column. He focused most of his attention on after-dark options, but a few day looks did make the cut, including a sleek trench and two other coats with more pleating on the sleeves. One pair of trousers came with origamilike folds at the pockets. Too bad he didn t see fit to include some of his sharp suits in the mix.