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If pollsters followed fashion, they would surely note a spike in Thakoon Panichgul s approval ratings. Not only did Michelle Obama wear one of the young designer s floral frocks at the Democratic Convention—a real coup—but his patterned pieces have been seen daily at the tents on the backs of editors. For Spring, Panichgul delivered a number of options for dyed-in-the-wool Thakoon-ocrats, among which an organza seamed dress with a surreal print of roses sprouting legs and a black tulle-trimmed trench stood out as surefire hits. But he also took some chances that, while not actually politically incorrect, definitely could not be worn to the White House (Bra-backed apron dresses? Exposed and bound midriffs, anyone?).

"I always like a tough show," Panichgul explained in the run-up to runway day, "because what I do is more feminine than not, so I like the balance." Tough, for him, meant sexy. Panichgul used lots of nudes, corsetry, and a kiss print (worked into a fantastic gossamer trench). While the designer is certainly on the money with his contributions to the budding boudoir trend, it wasn t clear if he was simply playing to the crowd, so to speak, or sincerely exploring a new facet of his design DNA. Besides, you sense that the softer, more upbeat Thakoon will always have a better chance of winning the popular vote.