Two threads ran through Vivienne Tam s Spring collection Tuesday night: peonies and an homage to the late Yves Saint Laurent. The YSL element could be seen in the tailored suiting options; the peonies could be seen everywhere. "Every woman loves peonies," Tam declared before her show, and she wrote her love letter in prints, appliqués, and cutouts evoking the bloom s lush beauty. The tailoring was beside the point (it s just not Tam s thing), and the less said about her pinstripe version of Le Smoking, the better. The peonies were much more successful. Flowy maxi dresses in a petal print looked light, cool, and full of life; a snazzy, pleated chiffon silk sheath with a single oversize blossom on it had a graphic appeal. Tam s protracted show had its share of blunders, and these missteps weighed down a collection that had several lovely moments.
