The Ann Demeulemeester show began, as it almost always does, with a passage in black. This time it was tailored, slightly oversize jackets worn with slim cigarette pants topped by leather cummerbunds—no shirts. It wasn t until a few looks in that you could crack her Spring code. Cue the gulls on the soundtrack, the black wing print on a white cord motorcycle jacket, the delicate chains draped from the models hair bands, and it came to you: caged birds.
The nature-versus-man conceit produced one of Demeulemeester s most seductive collections ever. There was a lot of bare skin underneath that moto jacket with lapels made of draped zippers; shrunken leather waistcoats, some without backs, didn t leave much to the imagination, either. The effect was never vulgar, though, thanks to leather bandeaus that covered the bust. Speaking of excesses, the bird prints were certainly plentiful for a designer who made her name in the minimalist nineties. They looked best solo, as on a long evening skirt with a train (worn with a black vest).
So, was this Demeulemeester s way of adding to the general conversation about exposure and sex? She d probably say no. "I always start from an emotional place," she explained. There s little doubt that her fans will connect.
