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Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra had no esoteric references to pull out of their (plaid-clad) sleeves this season. Gone, too, were the styling gimmicks. For Spring, they said, they were interested in simply exploring "beauty for beauty s sake."

The boys went back to their roots with a marked focus on lovely drapes and lush color—with an added dollop of Earth-friendly fashion technology this time around. For their sunset and lake prints, based on photographs Costello shot digitally in Brooklyn, they worked with a company called AirDye that has developed a way to print fabric without using water. Surface interest was also provided by a number of dresses with contrasting backs that played matte against shine or print against solid. There were also très subtle Swarovski details, a few mumsy elastic belts, and accomplished origami folding. The first exit featured satin-organza embroidery that magically transformed a dress into an orchid, which, in turn, made model Ali Stephens look like a (simply beautiful) walking flower.