Newish creative director Raul Melgoza has been the force behind much positive change at Luca Luca. The days of Paris Hilton dressed in pastel tweed, preening as the star of a circuslike front row, seem like ancient history. For Spring the designer was taken with the louche Rive Gauche glamour of the seventies. It s not quite one of the decades that s currently trending in the fashion world, but, hey, we can always be convinced. However, Melgoza fell a touch short of making his argument, which didn t offer a clear new way of looking at the reference. Wide-leg jumpsuits and even high-waist trousers had an almost costumey feel, while awkward funnel-neck suits seemed wholly out of place. Dresses in tiered silk and a chiffon animal print were undeniably high points, worn as they were with wild, loose curls and M.C.L. s kaleidoscopic enamel jewelry, but they didn t fully redeem or refine this seventies show.
