Since Milan Vukmirovic took over at Trussardi 1911, he s been spending more time in his namesake city, and he s noticed guys wearing unstructured jackets, narrow pants, and rolled-up shirt sleeves, a new-wave-ish look that reminds him of the way things were 20 years ago—or even longer. He clearly identifies with that flashy self-consciousness, and is busy reconfiguring military, jean, and biker jackets with the most emblematic new-wave pattern of all, the leopard spot.
For Spring 2010, Vukmirovic printed those spots on ponyskin for a jean jacket, and heat-printed them on black leather for a tone-on-tone effect. He cut a military jacket from khaki leopard, and another jean jacket from blue leopard. There were belts, trainers, and military bags, all testifying to Trussardi s artisanship in skins. The designer also injected some of his favorite Taos touches—beaded belts, Mexican woven shirts, and an Indian blanket-patterned oversize cardigan with toggle closings.
Vukmirovic has taken a few seasons to strike the right balance between flash and substance, but his self-confidence has eventually settled into a winning optimism. Everyone could do with a little leopard in their lives at some point—little or lot, they know where to look.