Vanessa Seward left Azzaro earlier this year, and the new creative director, Mathilde Castello Branco, doesn t make her debut until next season. A design team was responsible for the collection for Spring, and you could tell. There wasn t much of a unifying theme to string together the jumpsuits, evening gowns, and bathing suits beyond the house s signature crystals. Azzaro isn t a collection that requires deep thinking on anyone s part—it s about party dresses and red-carpet frocks. Still, Seward could be depended on for a bit of humor or wit, and there was always her fab husband Bertrand Burgalat s soundtrack to keep you entertained if the clothes faltered. There was nothing flat-out wrong here today, other than a rhinestone-trimmed minidress dripping in silver paillettes and the matching Deco headpiece it was paired with. But a hint of personality would ve been nice.

















