Guillaume Henry is the real thing: an upstart with a vision and the good fortune to have the support of a brand behind him. The crowds at his shows keep getting bigger, and he didn t disappoint the top-of-the-masthead types who turned up this morning at the Jeu de Paume. His latest collection is very much in keeping with the codes he s established for the house—bright, young, optimistic, and leggy. Carven dresses always come with a wink: a lace inset that zigzags underneath the neckline, cutouts below the bust, removable collars or dickeys. The tailoring is well done, but cheeky, too, particularly when it comes to those high-waisted shorts.
For Spring, Henry spun a folkloric tale. Leather harnesses on top of dresses or underneath jackets recalled lederhosen; colorful prints inspired by native embroideries appeared on baby dolls, shirtdresses, and a striking off-the-shoulder pleated look. Bells jangled on the heels of sandals. But other than that, the designer had a light touch, especially when it came to his evening numbers. Inès de la Fressange, who wore a draped goddess style from his Fall show at the Cannes film festival, will have a lot of competition for this season s effortless little confections in technical taffeta.
