There was a time when MaxMara was a label with a wide reach. No one is about to say that "focus" is a dirty word, but everything is now so tightly iris-ed in on one set of proposals that you could be forgiven for thinking that the baby s been thrown out with the bathwater.
Today s silhouette was athletic, punishingly lean, made even more so by the ribbed capris that were the collection s signal piece. Three was the magic number: three bands of color—tan, white, aqua—and three body zones—bodice, midriff, below the waist. Sometimes the bands were joined tone on tone for a sleek silhouette. Other times, they were split and reattached by Frankenstein stapling. It was a strange mash-up of high tech and mad science, and it wasn t necessarily improved by the addition of perforated suede and an old gold Lurex. The final piece—a sinuous, strapless Lurex jumpsuit topped by a rigid wrap of stapled leather—captured the peculiarly dual nature of the collection.
