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Milly s Spring collection was a lesson in geometry. Designer Michelle Smith recently saw an exhibit of artist Sonia Delaunay s bold textile work at the Cooper-Hewitt museum and used it as a jumping-off point for the Tetris-like patterns and color palette (cobalt, tan, white, red, and palm green) here. This collection was "more linear and modern than it s been, with an emphasis on clean shapes," according to the designer. The boxy tangerine dress with a scattering of hand-embroidered gold sequins had an artisanal feel. And a favorite look of Smith s, a simple royal blue sheath dress with a high neckline, cut from a tropical wool, came styled with a resin turtle brooch and neck scarf tied à la Christina Ricci in the new Pan Am series.

Speaking of, Milly s accessories have been steadily improving each season, and Smith s new capsule collection with Sperry Top-Sider ("I ve been wearing Sperrys since I was a kid," she said), which featured cute espadrille platforms, was a high point here. As were the new handbag designs: slim rectangular clutches and satchels in bright citron, pink, and aqua. Referencing the ongoing neon fad, Smith said, "They [neons] are easy to wear as finishing-touch pieces. But I have a feeling we ll be seeing a lot of palette-cleansing grays and blacks next season."