Spring s tribal trend has so far focused on Africa, but Rossella Jardini s compass points in the direction of the American Southwest by way of Spain. It s not unfamiliar territory for this brand. Way back when, the label s founder, Franco Moschino, designed a matador outfit that he called Bull Chic. This time around, Jardini gave her embroidered jackets the house s familiar tongue-in-cheek spin with tiny bells that jingled as the models walked down the runway. (A leather Perfecto appliquéd with the slogan "Make Up, Not War" also nodded toward Franco s signature irreverence.) While those jackets and the suede dresses with deep fringe may prove too costume-y for all but the most diehard Moschino fans, other pieces trod more lightly on Jardini s chosen themes. A pair of sexy L.B.D. s densely embroidered in gold thread had a Latin vibe not unlike the matador looks, but without the musical accompaniment. And as for the collection s Navajo beading, it decorated the waistline or the bodice of otherwise simple, summery frocks.
Sunshine yellow, one of the season s key hues, provided the show s bright pop of color. Jardini used it for a smocked top paired with a long, flower-strewn peasant skirt. A swirling heart pattern on a trio of dresses likewise accentuated the optimistic streak that made this latest Moschino outing as winning as it was.
