If he wanted to indicate a new mood for Spring, Oscar de la Renta couldn t have picked a better soundtrack: Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd. Yes, you read that right. And sitting front-row opposite Valentino and Justin Timberlake: Nicki Minaj, sans pants. Those weren t the only things that made this Oscar show feel particularly zippy. There was a fresh, upbeat look that went beyond the bobby-socks-and-heels act, the softly frizzed hair, and the no-makeup makeup. You saw it in a pair of bright silk taffeta ball gowns topped with T-shirts. Couture lace T-shirts, but you get the idea.
De la Renta has ditched the old church where he s presented for the last couple of years in favor of his new 42nd Street showroom. New venue, new lease on life? The space is un-renovated, and the runway is narrow. It meant you had an up-close view of the beautiful handwork that has won him so many fans over the years. White is a big trend this week, but we challenge you to find a lovelier, more ethereal dress than the one with the delicate handkerchief hem the designer put on Arizona Muse. It was one of a series of lacy white confections that skewed younger than anything we ve seen on an Oscar runway lately. And other things surprised, too. A chartreuse feather-stitched tank top and matching harem pant was perhaps too outré, but then you d see de la Renta s enthusiasm paying off, as in a crocheted silver thread sweater that exposed an inch or so of midriff over a metallic ball skirt.
Not to worry, ladies: He hasn t abandoned his core clients, the ones who return year after year for the tweedy skirtsuits, the sleeveless sheaths, the entrance-making evening dresses. But how fab to see a designer hit the refresh button after 40-plus years in business.
