Navy camp goes back to the Village People and beyond, and it s a natural fit for the blend of sport and smirk Thom Browne brews at Gamme Bleu. The sweltering Milanese heat didn t stop a line of dancers in custom Browne-ified sailor suits (spare no expense!) from tapping their way through the Charleston routine from The Artist under a banner of semaphore flags. Kelly and Sinatra would ve been proud. Milan, Milan—it s a helluva town!
The collection itself drew on sailing, the latest of Thom s athletic ferments. Though he confessed backstage that he s an indifferent sailor, the theme inspired an appealing collection. Maybe it was that he didn t belabor the point. Yes, there were the usual showmanly flourishes, like the sail cloth spinnaker clipped to Arthur Kulkov s evening look and a buckle-backed knit dress that looked like something you d sooner find at Browne s namesake line. But if being on the briny inspired the rain slicker parkas and blazers, the net-mesh details at gussets and pant stripes, and the penny loafer espadrilles, it s a trip to take. There seemed a skip in Thom s step as he came out after the sailors closing dance to take his bow. If only it had been a tap.
