In a Milan week that s been dominated by discussion of the new minimalism, it was the anti-minimalists turn to talk tonight at Aquilano.Rimondi. Backstage Tommaso Aquilano rattled off the duo s influences this season: Fellini s La Strada, couturier Roberto Cappucci, the Venice Carnival—none of which were a surprise given their commitment to all that is good and Italian. But new on their moodboard and on the runway were the references to Japan. How s this for anti-minimalist? On the bodice of one tiny dress a Kabuki character appeared in profile.
That was just the start, though, in a collection that had more of molto. Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi focused on two silhouettes: mini and midi. But short or long, there was a lot in play. Electric color-blocking, graphic harlequin jacquards, fan prints and embroideries, obi belts, and contrast ribbon borders—a different one for each look, Aquilano claimed. The beauties mostly belonged to the long category: A peplum top in that fan print and horizontal stripes worn over a split-seam pencil skirt in a scarf print was particularly sublime. Alluding to the designers love of embellishment before the show, one top merchant said, "It s unlike anything in the market." That s truer than ever this season when their against-the-grain approach could make them very popular with retailers.
