In response to her clients requests, Rachel Comey focused on occasion dressing for Spring, an area the work-and-weekend-wear designer had previously left unexplored. "I m used to thinking about dresses that work for night, but for like a Tuesday night," the designer said before her show. Saturday night dresses meant a few firsts, from ruffles to beading, and a return to last season s high-end fabrics, such as a hand-cut fille-coupe from Italy. Admittedly, the sight of a pink strapless minidress blooming with an outsize ruffle on the bodice was a bit jarring at first. But that s the sort of jolt that s bound to happen when you re changing gears.
Overall Comey carried off the new embellishments with her signature subtlety and easy femininity. A navy shift with a sheer back had tiny, brightly beaded lines where the tops of pockets on a dress shirt would be. It provided a touch of evening-appropriate sparkle while also giving a nod to the menswear that Comey so often turns to for inspiration. In an attempt to temper all the fancy stuff, she showed sleek one-piece bathing suits, some printed winningly with designs from men s neckties. For a day not at the beach, there was an easygoing pale-pink blazer with snap-button closures and a pair of perfectly slouchy camouflage pants. Accessories are a big part of this designer s business—a sunglass collaboration with Prism this season added eyewear to her offerings—and as the brand continues to evolve, it s nice to see Comey meet its clients needs on all fronts. Comey fans with somewhere special to go will now have plenty of playfully elegant options.
