Fashion week is already in full swing for Robert Rodriguez, who flew into New York on Sunday night to prep for his presentation today at the Mercer Hotel. Fresh off a vacation in Bora Bora, the designer was tan, refreshed, and ready for the crazy week ahead—and that mood extended to the clothes he s showing for Spring. "After last year s colorful collection, I wanted to concentrate on neutrals and garment construction," said Rodriguez. "So I decided to do a lot of black and white." While there may have been a lack of color, there wasn t a lack of opulence. A moto-trench jacket, minidresses, and pleated skirts were done in a laminated raffia made to look like leather, while a "nail-head fringe" motif hung off the sleeves of a silk baseball jacket and a sheer blouse.
For his print story, Rodriguez took inspiration from baroque wallpaper that he transformed into a pair of filigree pants and a fit-and-flare dress with peplumlike folds. "We are a contemporary label," he said. "But I really wanted to bring the collection to the next level." His intentions were clear, especially with the fit of the garments, the best of which was a tailored-to-a-tee pantsuit, whose jacket had intricate cutouts and matte grommet snaps on the back. Each look was accessorized with necklaces and bracelets from the designer s first complete jewelry line.