Emporio Armani s digital world was a clean, bright place. None of the mess of The Matrix. Instead, a seamless symphony of neutral colors, sci-fi textures, and a selection of sportswear staples whose streamlines would have been more impactful with the kind of judicious edit that Giorgio himself isn t remotely interested in.
This collection usually has an innate body-conscious athleticism. It was obvious today in blazers that zipped—rather than buttoned—close to the body, in the lightness of construction, in the sporty mesh-like perforations that duplicated digital codes, and in the bonding and laser cutting that are Milan s shortcuts to modernity this season. The key motif was a honeycomb pattern, suggestive of the digital hive of the Internet. It came printed, woven, or embossed, solid or sheer. In a similar vein was the three-dimensional mosaic tile effect that emphasized Armani s skill with subtle surface interest. It was at its best in fabric that looked like lacquered raffia, in a navy caban or a silver biker. Futuristic luxury.
It wouldn t be Emporio without a weird moment, provided here by visors (more transparent Harlequin masks, actually) that left tiny clouds of condensation by the models mouths. But the finale of monochrome eveningwear was a reminder that it s Giorgio s crowd-pleasing classics that keep the Armani engine churning.
