A season ago, Damir Doma s collection felt dour. But over the course of the summer, he made a correction. Backstage, he reported that his trip to Florence s Pitti trade show, where he was invited to present his Resort collection, was a fairly life-affirming rite of passage. Apparently, he s still basking in the afterglow. For Spring, he displayed a renewed interest in decoration and color, and they warmed up his familiar asceticism.
Doma started off with all-white looks in graphic lines. A cotton dress sliced diagonally down the front revealed the all-in-one underneath, while a horizontal vent on the back of a crisp sleeveless jacket exposed a flash of skin. Khaki dresses, meanwhile, were built from the elements of trenchcoats. Business as usual for Doma. But then came the polka dots. Printing them would ve proved too heavy-handed, so instead he laser-cut them, adding a sense of feminine froth to everything from boxy linen T-shirts to skirts whipped up in silk plissé.
The show came alive when Doma injected color. Tiger-lily orange looked particularly strong paired with a black and white check, although bright yellow also resonated. He came back to a trio of little black dresses at the end, but he kept them light with the polka dots or with an asymmetric sleeve. A much improved effort.
