One thing you can say for sure about Jacquemus: The brand s attitude of youthful exuberance is not affected. Simon Porte Jacquemus launched the label four years ago, when he was just nineteen; the young women he designs for are his peers as much as they re his muses. That might account for the realism of his clothes. This season, Jacquemus was spinning a tale of a girl who goes to visit the seaside town of La Grande Motte, in the South of France, and his geometric construction reflected the fifties-era architecture of the place. But he cut those looks in cotton, and everything was wearable. He is not a designer getting lost in his concept. Nor is he a designer trying too hard to make a big editorial statement—his sleeve silhouettes had a touch of Céline about them, which made them feel au courant, but it was just a suggestion. The debt wasn t onerous. In any case, the playful tees and graphic sweatshirts didn t look like anything other than the kind of thing the peppy Jacquemus girl is going to want to have in her wardrobe come spring.
