The first thing you saw when you walked into Martin Grant s presentation today was a bodysuit. Black, with a deep scoop in front and a racerback, it was made from a double-face acetate, the designer explained, so it sucks you in, lifts you up, and smooths you out. Just about everything a girl could ask for. Bodysuits were the foundation of the collection. Grant used one as the bodice of a party dress with black tulle skirts that blossomed on top of crinoline; another was teamed with a ball skirt in a graphic black and tan diamond jacquard of Grant s own design. The proportions looked just right.
Grant has made a success of himself with his responsiveness to clients needs. Not every occasion calls for something clingy, he knows, so he had other options, the best among them an elegant short-sleeved black coat with crinoline at the hips. There was also an exceedingly well-cut sheath in tonal black jacquard. Grant s ambitions here weren t grand, but the collection s narrow focus ensured he was able to lavish his prodigious dressmaker s skills on each look. The intimate presentation on mannequins put those talents into sharp relief.
