The Row woman this season is an eclectic, exceedingly well-dressed nomad, picking up inspiration and pieces from her travels around the world. It s a decided change of pace from Fall, when Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen conjured a fabulously chic city dweller content to lounge around at home in red bedroom slippers, with the occasional excursion to the office or dinner. Both visions are seductive. Maybe it s their experience on set as actors, but the Olsens are highly skilled at creating a mood.
The references for Spring came from far and wide. There were visions of Arabia in the long layers and the models veils, Northern Africa in the printed djellaba, a fishing village in the macramé sweater and matching cross-body hobo bag, and Russia (maybe), or some other cold clime, in a dense wool coat with a quilted bib. That coat and another that appeared to be constructed from a woven rug looked too weighty for real-life wearing, but the rest of the collection was notably light. The white top in crinkled georgette worn over a twisted bandeau and a snakeskin wrap skirt could ve been spun from air. Just as alluring was a sleeveless black dress in leather laser-cut so finely it looked, upon first glance, like it was lace. And while we re on the subject of wow factor, we should bring up a coat made from perforated shearling. Not many other New York designers are doing this kind of couture-like work.
This was a tranquil, transporting show, but one that was also firmly grounded in the here and now. Case in point: the show s sublimely understated loafers and mules, commissioned by the Olsens from the Bologna, Italy-based cobbler of handmade men s shoes Enzo Bonafè. It s the first time Ashley and Mary-Kate are offering shoes, and they ll be sold in limited editions. The Row s fans would be wise to put their names on the list now.
