Hanako Maeda has had quite a year. Back in February she showed formal, confectionary clothes at Lincoln Center for Fall. June saw an about-face as ADEAM turned out sporty, sometimes space-age ensembles for Resort. And for Spring 15, she struck a compelling balance between the two. Bearing in mind Yves Klein s Anthropométries series (part paintings, part performance art pieces in which the artist directed nude women as his "human paintbrushes"—dipped in International Klein Blue, of course), Maeda heat-transferred glossy, globule-like shapes onto neoprene frocks and separates. Fully fashioned pleated knits were at once futuristic and classic, as seen in midi dresses. The boxy, midriff-grazing tops seemed an especially long way from the relatively patrician looks on Fall s catwalk.
But in many ways, Maeda dialed back the edge factor from Resort s mod androgyny. From soigné boatnecks to high-low hemlines and delicate chiffon trims, there were plenty of elements to suggest that the designer hasn t lost her taste for the ladylike. Ever a devotee of luxe materials (custom brocades, fox trim, et al.), here she sent out a stunning geometric fil coupe. It was impossible not to notice that ADEAM has some power behind it in the production department, too; intercontinental music man Michel Gaubert supplied the tunes, and Aaron de Mey handled makeup. With cohorts like these—and design chops to match—the brand s future is looking bright.
