A couple of years ago, Bibhu Mohapatra traveled across the Atlantic by boat. While shuffling around the library during the seven-day trip, he stumbled upon the biography of writer, activist, and shipping heiress Nancy Cunard. (It was, indeed, a Cunard ship.)
Mohapatra was enthralled. "She had such a compassionate heart and creative mind," he said at a preview the week before his Spring show. "She broke barriers and stood for her beliefs." (The British-born aristocrat was known for many things, but one of them was her battles against racism and Fascism.) While Cunard s personal style was well documented—in her most famous photo, she s wearing a tough leather jacket and a stack of African wooden bangles, which were quite avant-garde for the time—Mohapatra mainly chose to let her spirit inform his work.
A geometric print of graphed-in circles pervaded the collection. There was a jacquard version—used on separates like a crop top with organza panels hanging down the sides—and a digitally printed iteration, done on everything from tops to dresses, including a cap-sleeve silk and cotton gown. Mohapatra even took it one step further, beading a graph-like pattern on the skirt of a crepe column that was otherwise covered in crystal poppies. The designer s subtle ode to Cunard s leather jacket came in the form of a collarless skirt suit made from leather and silk strips woven together. (It looked almost like ribbing.) One of the best ideas was a windowpane-printed silk blouse that came in black and lilac, its big pussy bow tied in the back.
Mohapatra s client is surely after his formal gowns—he s not afraid to use print, and they seem to appreciate that. But the day offerings were particularly strong this season. His collection was feminine and fitted, but a little eclectic, too. Something Cunard might very well have appreciated.
