Skip to main content

As a denim and leather brand, music is at the heart and soul of Diesel Black Gold. Designer Andreas Melbostad riffed on rockabilly and New Wave for Spring, citing as major inspiration a leather jacket studded with metal stars once sported by the 1980s icon Gary Numan. Melbostad s not the first designer to get into those grooves (Saint Laurent s Hedi Slimane currently leads the pack in this category), and he won t be the last, so the question is: What does Melbostad bring to the Spring conversation?

The quick answer: cute denim and leather separates. After several seasons of dyeing, studding, and otherwise mistreating jeans, he opted to use raw denim in vivid shades of red and baby blue. On a short A-line skirt, the red denim had a crisp naïveté that the bra top it was paired with didn t quite manage to subvert. Melbostad cut bra tops every which way; we imagine Rita Ora, who strolled in half an hour late, rocking a vestlike, lace-front version in silver and black leather. "It s my kind of thing," said scenester deejay Mia Moretti backstage. Numan s star studs materialized everywhere—as embellishments on skirts and jackets, and as prints on dresses that looked playful and young. Nothing to take too seriously. That s rock n roll for you.