Small Trades, Irving Penn s book of stark black and white portraits of workmen wearing their everyday uniforms taken in the 1950s, stands as one of photography s masterpieces. "The dignity, the proud postures, the fiery spirit that he was able to capture: I was so inspired by it," said the serene Andreas Melbostad, Diesel Black Gold s creative director, before today s show. At that time, denim was just a humble, sturdy fabric, suited for the hard life—certainly it wasn t the uniform for cooler-than-cool hipsters, fashionable rock stars, and street-style gurus that it has become. "I wanted to bring back that original, modest yet noble vibe and elevate it in a contemporary way. Giving it cachet but steering clear from retro, vintage, or costumey interpretations; making it more abstract," the designer elaborated.
Workwear influences were aptly integrated in the urban, utility-inspired lineup; streamlined and slimmed down, they made for a sharp silhouette. "I wanted a more precise look, less layered and more edited," said Melbostad. And edited it was, yet all of Diesel BG s staples were there, only with adjusted volumes and fine-tuned proportions. The emphasis was either on fitted tops paired with baggy parachute nylon pants or else, reversing the play, voluminous outerwear worn with extra-slim jeans with a crushed effect. Boxy kimono padded jackets referenced the crisp, immaculate shirts worn by chefs and waiters; raw, dark denim brought to mind the protective, tough quality of overalls, while aprons and jumpsuits called to mind butchers, fishmongers, or factory workers. All looked cool and lightly handled; yet a subtle emotional undercurrent could be felt, expressed in the color palette. An unusual nude-pink shade was added to blacks, indigos, and whites. "I wanted to give the show a more cinematic vibe, a bit of romance and poetry," Melbostad said. This gentle approach enhanced by contrast the strength of Diesel s DNA, which by the way is already quite strong; a little smoothing of the edges only added to its character.
