Sonia Delaunay’s 1920s stripes, Madeleine Vionnet’s 1930s draping, Adeline André’s 1980s patchwork—Laura and Deanna Fanning’s female-centric references returned in abundance for spring, ushering in a softer take on their off-kilter brand of cool-girl style. “We’re always drawn to what women have done in fashion throughout history,” said Laura at a preview. “We look backward to look forward,” added her twin sister, Deanna. Their references felt even more potent in a season that has witnessed big-name female designers exiting major luxury houses, with rumors rife that they will be swiftly replaced in those positions by male juniors.
The Australians’ experiments with ephemerality gave their collection a grown-up edge that set the tone for their first appearance on the official PFW schedule. They’ve built a loyal following in recent years with their playful, new-gen take on glamour—and their covetable accessories. Off the back of the success of the Trivia bag (carried by It girl Iris Law and DJ duo Simi Haze), the Amlen pochette is dangling from well-dressed hips and shoulders (FYI, they revisited it for spring in brightly colored perforated suede). Down below, the Lella, a hybrid ballet slipper–cum–driving shoe with grosgrain ribbon tie-ups, was adorning the feet of the eclectic crowd of tastemakers who turned up in force to support the designers at the Palais de Tokyo show space.
The sisters’ draped pieces stood out for spring and lent a faintly futuristic tinge thanks to a shiny cotton-nylon that they used for more conventional rippling camisoles and dresses, and for twisting into trousers, some punked up a little with zip details. Equally persuasive were the lightweight trench coats in a cotton-viscose woven with steel, the metal giving the fabric an artfully crumpled quality that was equal parts delicate and attitudinal. That contrast gets to the heart of what makes their Kiko collections so compelling. “We really want the brand to feel real and authentic, but we also believe in a vision and a dream. When you lose that in fashion, it can be very sad,” remarked Deanna in her singsong Aussie lilt. For those front-rowers calling for more female designers, it’s reassuring to know there are some rising stars already well versed in what their audience wants and needs.
