Given his roots, it’s only natural that Indian American designer Naeem Khan chose to explore “a marriage between the East and West” for his latest spring collection. Nodding to India’s signature craftwork—beading and embroidery being two pillars of Indian design, not to mention a recurring motif at the house of Khan—the designer wanted to celebrate his culture’s contributions to fashion, while also attempting to modernize and innovate on its traditions in new ways.
Khan did this best when he leaned in on popular Indian silhouettes and subtly updated them. Drawing from the sari, for instance, he paired a silver beaded crop top with a buttery yellow skirt—complete with a sheer shawl draped across the body. Another look—a sequined black bra top, paired with a gauzy skirt embroidered with stars and hearts—also had the draped shawl to match. Both looks felt youthful and fun without compromising the integrity of the original design.
Other looks perhaps went a little too contemporary. A leopard-print bra top and leggings—all hand-sequined—felt forced, and the tulle overlay an unnecessary afterthought. The skintight jumpsuit, hand-beaded over a sheer nude underlay, would be tricky on anyone. But Khan’s technical hand is what infused these looks with something special. One almost needs to see his clothes in person to understand their splendor: His foiled-feather evening gowns and embroidered caftan-coats dazzled under the bright lights in a way that screamed one word: expensive. The majority of his pieces felt luxurious and had a weight to them—a proper way to celebrate his native country.
