“Lightness, peace, softness—that’s the inspiration, what we wish for.” Véronique Nichanian took us to the seaside at Hermès. Her models scuffed along in strappy leather sandals and wide-leg pants cropped north of the ankles, with their biceps bared by zip-front sleeveless leather jackets and flexing with the weight of a “beach” bag. Though, of course, the Haut à Courroies is not made from woven straw or plastic.
That was the heart of this exercise: elevating beach clothes, which are typically made in the humblest of fabrics, with Hermès-level materials—and somehow not relinquishing their relaxed, easygoing spirit in the process. The fact that Nichanian did so elegantly is a testament to her sensibilities and her skills with leather, which looked as supple as silk on a button-down and matching neckerchief in pale lavender (one of many soft, pretty colors). The way shirts were buttoned only up to the midriff; the manner in which the necklines of the tank tops worn underneath them were scooped just so, displaying the barest flashes of chest; and even the tender reveal of the ankles under those high-water pants were all details that showcase Nichanian’s feel for languor.
As befits her intentions, there wasn’t much in the way of traditional suits. Instead, Nichanian gave tailored jackets a playful spin with a naive floral print—almost like a doodle—or manipulated lapels so the blazers had a less formal vibe. The sheer jacket at the end looked like a callback to the sexy collection she showed a year ago that fashion people couldn’t stop talking about. A few looks before that she conjured something similar with a voile shirt that had unfinished side seams, so that the back panel caught the breeze as the model wound around the Palais d’léna.
Keeping with the beachy theme, a few of the models were “tattooed” with a swirling harness motif lifted from a tank top, a shorts-and-camp-shirt set, and a button-down worn entirely unbuttoned with softly pleated pants. A bit of fun. For the Hermès man who takes dressing well seriously, there were plenty more of those roomy blouson shapes to hook him.
