Hyke postponed its presentation this season due to concerns over the coronavirus. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection from photos.
Hyke’s Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode find themselves in the trenches this fall. The design duo’s exploration of uniforms is a recurring theme within their work, but each season they tweak the concept. Their new silhouette is long and voluminous, cocooning around the wearer like protective gear. Models were engulfed by anorak capes and quilted ponchos as they breezed down Yoshihara and Ode’s runway in quick succession toting leather carryalls that resembled surplus duffles. Given the current concerns about security, infection, and personal space, the designs felt prescient; shielding oneself in a thick layer of fabric is undoubtedly one way to enforce a boundary, but despite the protective proportions, the collection avoided taking on a somber tone.
For spring, the Hyke team tempered the functionality of their designs with whimsical additions like fringe and shades of pastel blue. Fall took those ideas up a notch; a jolt of citron replaced the cool tones, and knit tassels adorned playful Fair Isle dickeys. A section devoted to nautical stripes and tartan was appealing, especially when the prints were layered up for a head-to-toe statement. As with many of their previous collections, there was an excellent trench dress—this time with a decorative chest pocket and elasticized waistband—and a touch of outré luxury. Pragmatism be damned, a floor-length fur vest will always be opulent!
As part of Tokyo Fashion’s all-digital reimagining, Hyke kicked off a week of livestreams, look books, and clothing viewed from a distance. Though they pulled off the quick change from staged show to social stream masterfully, the beauty of Yoshihara and Ode’s work deserves to be appreciated in person once normalcy is restored.
